Despite the fact that the days are getting shorter, fall remains my favourite time of year. I love the crispness in the air, the crunch of leaves under my feet and the smell of logs on the fire. Autumn is the perfect time of year to don your sweater and comfortable boots, and get out there and explore.
A few weeks ago, my husband Dave and I arrived on the shores of Lac-Supérieur in the Laurentians in time to check into our suite at Tremblant Elysium North and observe the last lunar eclipse. After grabbing a few provisions, including a nice bottle of wine or two at the onsite L’Etalage Gourmand market, we settled ourselves on the deck with our cameras to watch the show. As the earth slowly aligned itself between the sun and the moon, it cast a shadow across the entire moon, whose surface gradually turned red. That set the pace for the next few days, as we took our time discovering the Laurentians.
Walk in the woods
Less than 10 minutes away from our hotel is the gate to La Diable sector of the Parc national du Mont-Tremblant, Quebec’s largest provincial park. Stretching over 1,510 square kilometres, the park includes six great rivers, and more than 400 lakes and streams. You can hike, bike, canoe or paddle, and discover the magic of the mountain.
Take the plunge
“Hot, cold, relax” is the key to maximizing the benefits of hydrotherapy, and I suspect few places do it better than the Scandinave Spa. As soon as I stepped under the waterfall in the first hot pool, I felt not only my muscles but also my mind begin to unwind—though I have to admit that when I waded into the next pool, which came in at a cool 19C (67F), it literally took my breath away. A few minutes later, as I was lounging in a comfy chair beside the massive outdoor fireplace, I decided that the 1-2-3 combination was as restorative as promised.
At first, I was surprised that guests at the spa are asked to be silent during their stay, but this enriched the entire experience. While relaxing a hammock beside the Diable River under a canopy of trees, I was sure I could hear Manitonga Soutana—the spirit of the mountain—if I listened closely.
Right now, Scandinave is running a fall promotion—$35 for bath access, or $95 for a massage and bath access. So why not pack your bathing suit and plan on spending a morning, an afternoon or the entire day being good to you?
Savour the flavour
While you will have to wait until next September for the Tremblant Gourmand festival, there is no shortage of first-rate restaurants in the area to satisfy your culinary cravings in the meantime.
The chefs at Coco Pazzo are ‘slow’ aficionados who transform organic ingredients from local farmers into mouth-watering Italian dishes. While the trotta affumiata (smoked trout) was a work of art, and the strozzapreti rich and flavourful, Coco Pazzo’s signature dessert, the torta di formaggio con carmelo d’acero—mascarpone cheesecake drizzled with Quebec maple syrup caramel—was undeniably the perfect finish to a perfect meal.
Feeling a little more adventurous? Le Rustique Restobar near Lac-Supérieur features wild game, local meat and produce, as well as fresh fish. As the name suggests, the atmosphere is warm and inviting, and Chef Bruno changes the menu almost weekly to take full advantage of the seasons. It’s a wee bit off the beaten path but it was highly recommended by the locals, and they were right. The rabbit rillette and smoked venison tartare were both amazing!
If you’re craving comfort after checking out the boutiques and art galleries in Saint-Saveur, pop into Le Rio. Renowned for its fall-off-the-bone baby back ribs, Le Rio’s menu is extensive, and the service is fast and friendly. I’d highly recommend you pick up a jar or two of their BBQ sauce to enjoy another day.
Speaking of flavour, if you are a foodie, the new Fromagerie Mont Tremblant on Route 117 is a must-see. It features more than 20 award-winning Quebec cheeses—such as Le Cru du Clocher and Tomme des Demoiselle—as well as locally made sausages, teas and preserves that are unique to this part of the country. My family enjoyed the fabulous charcuterie board I later assembled from my purchases.
Often life’s greatest pleasures are the simplest ones—a walk in the woods on a crisp fall day, a wonderful meal shared with family and friends, a chance encounter with a doe and her fawn. Every season has its own special beauty and fall is no exception. The summer crowds have left and the skiers have yet to arrive, so if a little R&R is in order, don’t hesitate. In less than two hours, you can escape the hustle and bustle of the city, and truly relax in the Laurentians.
Disclosure: I visited the Laurentians as a guest of Tourisme Québec and Tourisme Laurentides, which have not reviewed or approved this post.
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2 comments
Fall is my favourite time of year for so many of the reasons you list. I love the weather, seasonal food and the cool nights. Nothing beats wrapping yourself with a blanket as you lean into the fire. We’re headed in the Outaouais area next weekend. It’s just what the doctor ordered.
Besos, Sarah
Journeys of The Zoo
We had THE best fall drive this year across Hwy 50 from Ottawa to Quebec’s Laurentian Mountains. The highway is cut through the Laurentian Hills range. Treated us to some fantastic fall colours.