Kenauk Nature in winter: A recipe for adventure in the Outaouais!

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Disclosure: Katharine and Eric were hosted by Kenauk Nature.

“I know you’ve brought your own snowshoes, but would you like to rent some skin skis?” asked Carl Simoncelli of Kenauk Nature, the beautiful game reserve and wildlife sanctuary north of Montebello, Quebec. “They’re the latest thing!”

My husband Eric and I didn’t have to think about it. “Yes!” was our excited reply.

Now, skin skis aren’t precisely new, being modern take-offs of an ancient technology used by northern peoples for perhaps several thousand years. Animals such as deer were hunted and skinned, then part of the fur was affixed to the base of “skis.” The fur helped people ascend hills, because the hairs caught and held onto the snow. Then, while skiing downhill, the fur lies flat against the ski, giving a smooth, controlled descent.

Today’s technology uses synthetic “skins,” but the effect is the same. Moreover, because skin skis are short and fat, resembling snowboards, they’re a hybrid of snowshoes and cross-country skis. In fact, this sport is sometimes called “skishoeing.”

We keenly recommend you try this out during your visit to Kenauk Nature.

So equipped, Eric and I drove to Cabine Les Rapides, our luxurious base for our two-day adventure at Kenauk Nature. Since it is completely outfitted with linens, bedding and kitchen utensils, all visitors must do is take personal toiletries and food (including coffee or tea). The pretty Kinonge River courses by, its rapids lending our cabin its name. We could imagine how lovely it would be in warm weather to be lulled asleep by its chatter through open, screened doors and windows.

After settling into the cabin and storing food in the fridge, we were eager to explore outside.

Day 1 at Kenauk Nature: Snowshoeing

At reception, Simoncelli recommended we download the free Ondago smartphone app, giving us access to information on Kenauk’s cross-country ski trails (we also got printed trail maps). Because of the sometimes metre-high snow in the woods, his colleague Célyn Fortin advised us to snowshoe on frozen lakes, where the snow would be less deep.

Off we went by car, pulling over into a cleared parking space. Snowshoeing through the woods to Lake Papineau proved “interesting”—there was just so much deep, deep snow to navigate. And then we gasped, as we absorbed the splendid view of this large, open lake, surrounded by the Laurentian hills.

Because the wind sweeps down gullies and ravines, lakes here become truly windswept, with ripples in the snowy surface resembling wave formations.

Fortin was correct—the snow wasn’t so deep here, and because of the crust created by the scouring wind, progress was far easier. Mind you, cozy toques and scarves proved mandatory, since no trees offered shelter. Sunglasses were equally crucial, serving as protection against the intense glare created by the strong, warming March sun.

Rocky islands poked up through the snow-clad lake, mounded and “decorated” by white pine, spruce, and shrubs in a Lawren Harris kind of way.

And the animal tracks! Although some mammals had braved the open lake, most had investigated the protected verge at the junction of forest and lake. Here we discovered the tell-tale belly-trough print of a river otter, plus fox, coyote and rabbit tracks.

What heaven, to be totally solitary on the lake, exploring Kenauk’s wild nature on a blue-sky, sun-drenched day.

After a few hours, thoughts of a hot meal, glass of red wine and cozy cabin started percolating through our minds. With the wind in front of us now, it was comforting to regain the protection of the forest. Soon, we returned to our car and Les Rapides.

Les Rapides: Cozy cabin comforts

This cabin is perfect either for a couple or couple with children, because the sofa pulls out to a captain’s bed. Eric braved the deck to barbecue steaks while I prepared veggies. It was a perfect, companionable conclusion to an exploratory snowshoeing day.

Falling asleep was effortless after our physical exercise and good meal, and dreams of the next day’s expedition floated in our heads.

Day 2 at Kenauk Nature: Skishoeing

We’re hooked! We absolutely loved the skin skis. This was our second try at these, so they were not a brand-new technology for us. Whereas our first try, years ago, was great, Kenauk’s three-hour outing cinched our opinion that we will buy skishoeing gear soon.

Step-in, easy-peasy bindings kept my hiking boots in perfect position. We’d both been a bit concerned that our feet might move about sloppily in an unsupported way. Happily, the bindings of this OAS equipment were secure, yet allowed our heels to rise and fall perfectly with the skiing motion.

So off we went, after first discovering a model of a moose marking the trailhead.

We remained on the Heron Ski Trail for a few hundred metres, but it proved a bit dull for us, being broad and flat. Eric suggested we veer off-trail, through the snow, onto a wetland we could glimpse through the deciduous forest. (We’d been told that off-trail exploration was permissible.)

Here, we entered a magical kingdom. No wonder the trail’s called “Heron,” because we found ourselves amid a wintery, deserted heronry (heron nesting area). Great blue herons are social birds. They will nest in large groups of up to 50 or more clumps of messy-looking nests made from surprisingly large sticks. Of course, in winter, these birds have migrated to warmer climes, so we saw mini-peaks of snow capping perhaps 20 or so empty nests.

While Eric took some photosphere images amid the stark, drowned trees, which create perfect conditions for a heronry, I poked about at the verge. I discovered some pink, sage-and-emerald-green sphagnum moss, fully exposed to the frigid air. How such life forms don’t freeze constantly fascinates me.

And then I paused, regarding and deciphering some immense tracks. At first, I thought they were made by a human being floundering in the snow, but suddenly I realized, “No, they’re moose!”

And indeed they were. No wonder that fake moose marked the trailhead.

Once Eric and I were back together, we followed its tracks. Eric discovered a spruce tree browsed by the moose, plus a depression where it had obviously lain down in the snow. Its back had evidently been protected by the spruce and the rise of the embankment, while it would have had a good view of predators approaching from the lake.

Then we were off, kick-gliding on the wetland. We’d read, at Kenauk’s reception centre, that the lake ice was 22 centimetres thick. Nonetheless, we were cautious. (Always check reports on ice conditions before venturing out onto any lake and proceed carefully.)

We could discern snaking forms of esker-like beaver dams, as well as their conical lodges draped with snow. Spying Kenauk’s yurt accommodation (and having discerned no people were staying there), we regained the trail and returned to our car, skishoeing up Heron Trail.

Soon, we were back at Les Rapides, where we packed up for our return home.

Exploring Montebello

Being cheese enthusiasts, before taking the 1.5-hour drive to our home in the Pontiac (the drive to Ottawa is just an hour), we visited Fromagerie Montebello, where we purchased some of our favourite locally made cheeses.

Rebellion 1837 recalls the French-Canadian rebellion of that year, where Montebello’s famous resident, Louis-Joseph Papineau, led an uprising against British rule. This blue cheese is soft and buttery, with, just as the website claims, “flavours of wild mushrooms.” We also purchased some pasteurized ewe’s milk cheese: Manchebello has the rustic, pungent flavour of sheep’s milk that we enjoy.

And, because we love exploring new restaurants, we popped into Le Bistro Montebello. Although it’s been under new management for the past three years, our greeter informed me it’s been around for some 30 years. No wonder: It has a casual, friendly atmosphere and scrumptious fare. Eric tried the special of the day: a home-made potage, smoked-meat sandwich and fresh nougat with dark chocolate dessert. Me? I chose Le Bleu hamburger—and, yes, it gets its name from a melted slab of Rebellion 1837, along with a garnish of pears. Served with a generous portion of fries and salad, it magically disappeared from my platter.

Completely satisfied, off we scooted, returning home via Highway 50, feeling well exercised, relaxed and well nourished.

My advice? Go explore Kenauk Nature and try skishoeing—I bet you’ll love it. Simply want to chill? Les Rapides’ wood stove offers a cozy fire to curl up beside, and its orange flickering flames provide the perfect backdrop for reading, or playing cards or board games. And, by the way: Staffers have already put wood in the stove, and the woodshed outside is full of perfectly cut, dry wood.

Kenauk Nature is a truly rewarding experience.

If you go

Here are some handy websites for more information:

• Kenauk Nature (note that other activities at Kenauk Nature include ice fishing, visiting the fish hatchery (where rainbow, speckled and brown trout are raised to stock lakes) and traditional cross-country skiing)
• Outaouais Tourism
• La Fromagerie Montebello
• Le Bistro Montebello

Disclosure: Katharine and Eric were hosted by Kenauk Nature, including rental of the skin skis. However, they paid for their cheeses at Fromagerie Montebello and for their meals at Le Bistro Montebello.

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Katharine Fletcher is a freelance writer, visual artist and author of historical guides such as Capital Rambles: Exploring the National Capital Region. She invites you to like her artist page and to check out her art workshops.