In 1967, Carleton Place, Ontario, worked its charms on a young country singer.
He strolled into an old Victorian building called the Mississippi Hotel, hoping to snag a gig singing in the bar. Not only did he get the gig, but he was so popular that the owner kept him on for a month.
While he was there, he wrote what would later become one of his first hits, an ode to an Eastern Ontario folk hero named Big Joe Mufferaw. And he made sure to protect the bar’s stage with a piece of plywood while pounding his foot on the floor to keep the beat. A few years later, just about everyone in Canada with a radio would know him as Stompin’ Tom Connors.
Connors never forgot the town that had been kind to him when he was just starting out. Decades later, when the Mississippi Hotel was threatened with demolition, Connors was a among the people who rallied to save it. Today, it’s a stylish spot called The Grand Hotel.
And Carleton Place didn’t forget the homespun country singer. When Connors died in 2013, the town commissioned a giant mural of him, which now overlooks the hotel.
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Connors is far from the only person to have developed a fondness for this Lanark County town. In fact, Carleton Place has been attracting a wave of entrepreneurs looking for good opportunities in a community where they can have a good work-life balance.
For instance, a group of guys who met while working at Ottawa’s Wellington Gastropub took over a one-time car dealership and opened Stalwart Brewing Company in 2015. The next year, chef Ian Carswell launched his destination restaurant, Black Tartan Kitchen, a few blocks away. The year after that, Rohit Gupta opened Braumeister Brewing Company at the opposite end of downtown. And around the same time, a partnership restored the old Mississippi Hotel building as the Grand Hotel.
Today, Carleton Place, Ontario, is a wonderful mix of trendy new places and old favourites. It feels like a real community, not a town designed for tourists.
Have I sold you? If so, hop in the car for a short drive from Ottawa and check out what CP has to offer.
Table of contents
Shopping in Carleton Place
If you like independent boutiques, you’ll find lots to choose from in Carleton Place.
Creative types will enjoy the Real Wool Shop (142 Franktown Road) where, naturally enough, you can buy many, many brands of yarn, including Opal, West Yorkshire Spinners, and Briggs & Little. The store sells much more than wool, though, including moccasins, medical sheepskin products, bedding, baby toys, skin creams and casual clothes.
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Are you a thrifter? You could start a bargain-hunting day at The Cheerful Giver thrift store, located where Lansdowne Avenue meets Bridge Street and Moore Street (2 Lansdowne Avenue). Then, work your way along Bridge Street, stopping at another thrift shop, As Good As New (33 Bridge Street), Coastal for on-trend new and consignment women’s fashions (43 Bridge Street), Apple Cheeks for new and consignment kids’ and maternity clothing (53 Bridge Street), Millwards for consignment decor and furniture (62 Bridge Street), and Treasures ‘N’ More for new and used collectibles and toys (133 Bridge Street).
In 2023, the Carleton Place Gallery opened its doors downtown (210 Bridge Street). Funded and run by local artists, it features pieces by some 20 creators from Carleton Place and nearby. The following year, Arts Carleton Place opened the Art Hub (50 Bennett Street) to showcase works by its members. In the same building, you’ll find the Sarah Moffat Art Gallery.
Restaurants and food shops
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Black Tartan Kitchen (132 Bridge Street) is one of my favourite restos in Eastern Ontario. Chef Ian Carswell—whose work has taken him to places as diverse as a Michelin-starred restaurant in Helsinki, Ottawa’s Absinthe Cafe and the National Gallery of Canada—creates inventive bistro specialties with fresh local ingredients. His venison carpaccio, accented with toasted buckwheat and Mighty Micro sprouts, even made a believer out of this game meat hater.
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A Carleton Place icon since 1997, the homey Good Food Company (31 Bridge Street) specializes in internationally inspired light fare (frittatas, crepes, soups) and house-made desserts. Like many CP restaurateurs, owner Petra Graber serves up lots of local products, such as java from Fluid Solar Coffee Roasters in Clayton, cage-free eggs from Bekings Poultry Farm in Oxford Station and vodka from Almonte’s Dairy Distillery. Make sure to come early in the day, as it’s open for breakfast, brunch and lunch, but not dinner.
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Other Carleton Place restaurants to consider include The Boulton House (35 Mill Street), housed in an 1820s mill; Sagar Indian Cuisine (156 Bridge Street), where the service is kind and the butter chicken is delish; and the Waterfront Gastropub (12 Bell Street), which offers a big patio overlooking the Mississippi River, live music, and long hours (breakfast, lunch and dinner seven days a week).
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I haven’t had time yet to check out the 7cm-high doughnuts at Holey Confections (21 Bridge Street), but I’ve heard good things.
On the edge of town, cheese lovers can get their fix at The Cheddar Stop shop (10471 Highway 7), which sells many othertypes of cheese besides its namesake. You’ll also find lots of other food treats, including ice cream, fudge, honey, pepperoni and coffee.
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Carleton Place can also slake your thirst. If, like me, you like your beers on the slightly sweet side, I can highly recommend Big Papa at the Stalwart Brewing Company (10 High Street). “The Big Papa pale ale has some peach and apricot in it, but it’s not your typical fruit beer—it’s definitely a pale ale first,” Adam Newlands, one of Stalwart’s co-owners, says. Not a fan of sweet? No worries; the brewery makes a wide range of other beers, from a light blonde to a chocolate porter and a double IPA.
The concept for Braumeister Brewing Company (19 Moore Street) was born when co-founder Rohit Gupta moved from Ottawa to Austria to teach high school. Captivated by the warm camaraderie at Austrian beer gardens and eager to replicate the experience back home, he decided Carleton Place was a great place to try the concept.
Festivals and events
Popular events include the Bridge Street Summer Fest (August) and Pumpkinfest (October), both organized by the Downtown Carleton Place BIA (see “If you go”).
More Carleton Place sights and attractions
At several places in Carleton Place—including the Carleton Place Visitor Information Centre (170 Bridge Street) and at the Carleton Place and Beckwith Heritage Museum (267 Edmund Street)—you can learn about hometown hero Captain Arthur Roy Brown, credited with shooting down the Red Baron during the First World War.
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Behind the museum, you can meander through the Carleton Place Community Labyrinth, a peaceful spot for meditation and contemplation. It’s open around the clock, free of charge.
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Visiting with kids? A great place to let them blow off steam is Riverside Park (175 John Street), where you’ll find a beach on the Mississippi River, boat launches, play structures, picnic tables and a splash pad. Put a canoe or kayak in the water here and you’ll be following in the wake of a long line of paddlers; the nearby Carleton Place Canoe Club (179 John Street) dates back to 1893 and is the oldest continuously operating such club in Canada.
If you’d rather hike beside the river than paddle it, pick up the Rotary Centennial Trail near the McNeely Avenue Bridge for a gentle seven-kilometre ramble along trails and country roads to the village of Appleton.
Seeking further inspiration? Check out 10 Things You Didn’t Know About Carleton Place. (Well, OK, you know a bit about a few of them after reading this post, but several places mentioned briefly in this post are covered in more detail there.)
If you go
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Carleton Place is 53 kilometres from Parliament Hill. To drive there, take exit 145 from Highway 417 onto Highway 7 west.
Are cycling or hiking more your speed? Then pick up the Ottawa Carleton Trailway in Stittsville and follow it 23 kilometres to Carleton Place.
The Downtown Carleton Place BIA organizes events throughout the year and is a good source of information on local shops and restaurants.
For more details on visiting Carleton Place, check out the town’s website or drop by the Carleton Place Visitor Information Centre at 170 Bridge Street. You can’t miss it, as it’s located inside a 19th-century log building that was once a general store, was moved to this site in 2007 and is reputedly haunted by a mild-mannered ghost named Ida.
Carleton Place accommodations
If you’d like to stay overnight, there’s the aforementioned and aptly named Grand Hotel. You can use the map below to book it and other accommodations. Disclosure: I’ll receive a small commission if you book a Carleton Place hotel, B&B or other place to stay via the link above or the map below, which will help support this website. (Thanks!)
Looking for more tips for things to see and do in Eastern Ontario, the Outaouais and beyond? Subscribe to my free weekly newsletter and/or buy my guidebook, Ottawa Road Trips: Your 100-km Getaway Guide, from which this post is adapted.
As the owner of Ottawa Road Trips, I acknowledge that I live on, work in and travel through the unceded, unsurrendered territory of the Algonquin Anishinaabeg Nation. I am grateful to have the opportunity to be present on this land. Ottawa Road Trips supports Water First, a non-profit organization that helps address water challenges in Indigenous communities in Canada through education, training and meaningful collaboration.
9 comments
[…] Less than 15 minutes south on Highway 29 from Almonte (and only about 20 minutes southwest of the Canadian Tire Centre in Kanata), you’ll find the Lanark County town of Carleton Place. Like Mississippi Mills, it’s on Ontario’s Mississippi River, so there are riverside parks, some waterfront restaurant patios, and lots of kayaking and swimming opportunities. Try the great farm-to-table fare at Black Tartan Kitchen and sample some Big Papa pale ale at the Stalwart Brewing Company. For more ideas, see my guide to day trips from Ottawa to Carleton Place. […]
[…] Another short drive (roughly 12 minutes) down County Road 29 brings you to Carleton Place, the largest community on this tour. Unwind (if you aren’t relaxed enough already!) with a meditative walk around the free Carleton Place Community Labyrinth. Kick back with a book and a takeout coffee in the big red Muskoka chairs just across the river from the town hall. If you didn’t eat your fill in Almonte, book ahead for a memorable dinner at the recently reopened Black Tartan Kitchen. And pick up some cheese and fudge at the Cheddar Stop to sustain you on the (short) drive back to Ottawa along Highway 7 and Highway 417. (For additional ideas, see my complete guide to Carleton Place.) […]
[…] This post from the Ontario’s Highlands tourism organization points you to outdoor rinks and sledding hills throughout a wide area west of Ottawa, including a skating pond in Calabogie and an “epic” hill in Almonte. (P.S.: If you’re looking for more things to do while you’re out, regulations permitting, check out my guides to Almonte and Carleton Place.) […]
[…] then meditate as you make your way around the Carleton Place Community Labyrinth. And here are my complete guide to Carleton Place and 10 things you didn’t know about Carleton […]
[…] Whether you cycle or drive, you’ll find Carleton Place a very pleasant spot to while away the afternoon. Quench your thirst with a craft beer from Stalwart Brewing Company or Braumeister Brewing Company, or learn about the town’s connection to the Red Baron at the Carleton Place and Beckwith Heritage Museum. Several restaurants, including the Waterfront Gastropub, have nice views of the Mississippi River. For more inspiration, see my tips for visiting Carleton Place. […]
[…] Carleton Place: Your ultimate day trip guide […]
So much to see in Carleton Place, including the beautiful newly opened Carleton Place Art Gallery at 210 Bridge St. (just north of the bridge). It features fine art pieces from local and Ottawa regional artists.
Yes, I just dropped into the art gallery a few weeks ago! I am mentioning it in an upcoming piece for Ottawa Business Journal.
Actually, the story is already out! https://obj.ca/regional-roadtrips-labyrinths-haunted-cabins-carleton-place/