“It’s an addiction,” says Bob Eaton.
His eyes dart back and forth, scanning the ground while we talk, searching for his next fix. It doesn’t take long to find.
“Now this one’s a beauty,” he declares, holding up a purple crystal to the sun before placing it in a pail with the others.
Eaton is one of thousands of amateur geologists (AKA rockhounds) who visit Bancroft, Ontario each year. Known as the Mineral Capital of Canada, this town in the Haliburton Highlands, 220 kilometres west of Ottawa, is a true gem in every sense of the word.
“Its geological history goes back 1.4 billion years,” says geologist Corey Lablans.
Bancroft is situated over a site that was once a sea and later mountains higher than the Himalayas. The peaks weathered down, affording “a unique opportunity to access many minerals that are normally not accessible at the surface in other parts of the world,” says Lablans. More than 1,600 different types of minerals have been identified in the region.
This means that anyone, rockhound or not, can find some display-worthy minerals to take home. Our family scored rose quartz, amethyst, appetite crystals, mica and the highly prized sodalite on our visit.
Photo copyright Jennifer Merrick.
Sodalite holds a special place in the region’s mineral heritage. Other than South Africa, Bancroft is the only other major source of the royal-blue decorative gem. And the best place to find it is at the Princess Sodalite Mine. According to local legend, the mine was named after the Princess of Wales, who fell in love with the mineral on her 1901 visit and ordered 130 tonnes of it to decorate Marlborough House.
Today, visitors can unearth the sought-after gem themselves at the site. “We get about 4,000 visitors from around the world each year,” says proprietor Andy Christie. He operates a rock farm where enthusiasts of all ages can harvest rocks and minerals. New crops are continually brought in from around the region and across the province, including the bounty of the sodalite mine on the property. The farm is free to enter but $1.50 a pound for whatever keepers you bring out.
For those who’d rather let others do the mining, the rock shop on the premises stocks mineral specimens, gems, collecting supplies and jewellery. The self-named “healy feely” section is filled with metaphysical literature and gems labelled with their transcendental abilities. Do you want to sleep better? Attract positivity? Or perhaps bring harmony, peace and vitality into your life? If so, there are gems for that, and you can find out about them here. Sodalite, for example, is said to promote greater mental clarity and rational thought. Even if you’re not convinced, it’s a fun section to browse. And there does seem to be a certain energy about the place…
Photo of the Bancroft Mineral Museum copyright Corey Lablans.
For Wendy Melanson, curator of the Bancroft Mineral Museum, gems don’t need any mystical properties to impress.
“They are attractive in their own right,” she says. And the minerals and gems on display at this museum certainly dazzle. Bancroft specimens have been shipped for use in displays all over the world, including the Smithsonian Institute, so it’s fitting that they should finally have a place to show off their brilliance at home. Opened last year, the museum houses impressive displays of minerals from the area, along with maps showing where they were found. The large, green apatite crystals are particularly impressive, as are the fluorescent samples that glow in the darkened room.
The Bear Lake Diggings display features large specimens found at this popular nearby collection site. In fact, anyone willing to dig and get dirty for riches is welcome to gather rocks here once they have purchased a pass. Bring your own supplies (rock hammer, chisel, safety glasses, mosquito repellent) and see what you can find.
The abandoned railway car where the museum is located also houses the Bancroft Visitor Information Centre. Geological tours can be booked here, which take participants to collection sites and geological points of interest. The excursion attracts people of all ages and interests, from visiting geologists to families looking for a fun day out.
Photo copyright Jennifer Merrick.
“Mineral collecting is a wonderful way to get into nature,” says Melanson.
And nature in this region is worth getting into. The Haliburton Highlands is known as cottage country with more than 600 lakes, rolling hills, and a mixed hardwood and evergreen forest. Its rugged wilderness attracts artists, paddlers, hikers, anglers and city dwellers escaping the crowds.
And, of course, rockhounds.
If you go
Accommodation in Bancroft includes the Bancroft Inn and Suites and Grail Springs, an award-winning health and wellness resort. Cottages, cabins and family-run resorts are also very popular, and rentals can be found through the Ontario’s Highlands Tourism Organization.
If you’re planning to come the last weekend in July, be sure to book early. Known as “the weekend” by the locals, it’s when the annual Rockhound Gemboree takes place. It’s Canada’s largest gem and mineral show, attracting up to 7,000 visitors.
Good options for restaurants include the Craftsman Restaurant for home-style cooking in a cozy atmosphere and the Lakehouse Restaurant for lakeside dining with views of beautiful Paudash Lake. In town, try Vito’s Pizzeria for authentic Italian fare.